Te Araroa

Motatapu Alpine Track


Along the lines of a historical Maori route Te Araroa winds its way from Wanaka to Queenstown. Motatapu is a fantastic track. It is not characterized by your typical dramatic mountain landscape – glaciers, snowy peaks, blue lakes – yet there is something inherently impressive about it. It is different from any other mountainous place I’ve seen. It is rough, rugged, full of deep stream and creek gullies, cross-cut by countless steep and sharp ridgelines. It holds some of the last beech forest in the area. The track follows “a demanding line” across this beautifully remote terrain.

If I understood it right, it was our last hard, high-altitude mountain track. So we took it easy and enjoyed it as much as we could. We walked together with Patrick and Marylène, one hut at a time. The huts were great, the tracks provided wonderful walks every day. It was a tough run, but as we walked along, navigating ridgeline after ridgeline, the geography of the place left an ever-deepening impression. And I must say, I’m happy I had 2600km of training before coming here.


On our third day out we covered the hardest part of it. It was cloudy and foggy. The atmosphere in the mountains was very mystical that day. Sharp rock outcrops kept dooming up out of the fog and every now and then a window showing the valley floor deep below would open. It was all going pretty great and I liked the vibe. And so I was descending the Knuckle Peak ridgeline when I noticed PJ lying face first in a tussock-filled gully.

For a second I thought he was pulling a prank on me. And then I realized he must have fallen from where I was standing, almost 2 meters higher. “PJ?” No answer. Again, a bit louder. “PJ? You OK?” No answer. He lay motionless on the ground with his head down, sticks all over the place. “Oh f*ck”, I thought, “this is seriously wrong.” I was trying to find a way down, ready to throw my pack off and press the SPOT when I finally heard a faint “Auww”. Phiuw. At least he was conscious.


It took a while to get him up again and all the while I feared he was severely injured. Miracoulusly, he wasn’t. it was a hard blow and he felt it deerly throughout the next days, yet it all could have been much, much worse.

We continued our way to Roses Hut. Right before the final descent to the hut, we sat down on one of the ridgeline knobs. I nestled myself in the tussock grass. It was quiet, peaceful, beautiful up there. PJ quietly sat beside me. We looked down to the Motatapu station, to Patrick and Marylène walking to the hut. We sat still for a while. “I don’t want this to end. I don’t want to get to Bluff. Let’s just stay and sit here” I said. Even after his blow, PJ agreed. “I don’t want to get back to society.”


Almost five months have passed since we started walking. Fall has officially come now, and we picked up some warmer clothes from our bounce box in Wanaka. So much has happened since the Cape, yet time seems to have been standing still since we left. The trail has offered us a window on a life unrushed, a life of freedom and fresh air. The touch of this life has reshaped us, reshaped our views on ourselves and on the future, in irrevocable ways, I guess.

So in the days to follow we would stop at every saddle, every pass, every magnificent viewpoint along the ridgelines. All four of us would stand still, breathe in that mountain air and repeat the same thought. Let’s stay in the mountains! But of course, we had to come down in the end. Through the ghost settlement Macetown and the historic mining village Arrowtown we made our way to the noises of the city Queenstown, longing for the silence of the lonely mountains that are surrounding it.


And so we came to our final stop before we will continue all the way to Bluff, extending our hike with a bit by going over the Routeburn Track. Of course in ways it was nice to reach the city too, to sleep in a warm bed, to eat something greasy and filling. The physical consequences of the trail are becoming very clear now: as for me, my feet are shattered, and the skin repeatedly ripped off will not heal before we get to the end. But with some tape, they’ll hold. PJ’s back is up for a rest, and his knees too. I’ve lost about 7 kilos so far, mostly in the period since we came to the south island. I was surprised as I assumed the gain in muscle would make up for the loss of bodyfat in terms of weight. Pj hasn’t been on a scale yet.

Yet even with the battered feet, backs and knees, we don’t want to leave the trail. All we really want to do, is keep on walking.

5 thoughts on “Motatapu Alpine Track”

  1. Pingback: Howls in the woods
  2. Your stories have the ability to let the reader feel completely included. Thank you for leting us being a part of your adventure and please take care of yourselfs!


  3. And so You have reached the final run of Your fantastic journey,an breathtaking accomplishment. You both should be very proud of Yourselves,as we certainly are! And very curious about the great story’s we can be expected to be told at Your return,in a couple of months!
    Enjoy those final tracking days in the mountains,but careful as in/accidents lay,as proven a couple of days ago,in small corners/details. I hope PJ is recovering nicely from the incident!
    Let feet,knees and backs be the least troublesome those coming weeks,and memorise as much as possible of the land,the landscape and eventually the people of this beautiful country!
    I expect to see somewhat exhausted but very happy trailers in a couple of weeks!
    Till than,go South,go Buff! P.


  4. Oef, er zijn gelukkig ook in NZ ” engel bewaarders”! Gelukkig geen blijvende letstels van de val bij PJ. Amazing hoe snel een bepaalde levenswijze deel van jezelf wordt he . Het wijdse, mooie , stille van de bergen, dat je dat eeuwig wil meenemen, kan er in komen.
    Nog een dikke week en jullie hebben het verwezenlijkt. Niet alleen het afleggen van die vele vele kms maar ook het verwerken van al wat het met de innerlijke mens doet……zoals je schrijft, het heeft jullie “anders” gemaakt, het zal jullie niet meer los laten….
    Ik hoop dat het laatste stukje jullie alsnog zal plezieren.. Ik druk jullie de duimen veilig en wel verder te gaan zodat jullie een onvoorstelbare apotheose meemaken. Al zal ik het niet live meemaken toch zie en voel ik in gedachten zie jullie aankomst, dat wordt een subliem moment, zeker weten. Maar, voor het zover is nog even kms wreten….
    Take care both of you and toi toi for the last kms!
    Big hughs


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